Little online. I need a new electric water heater and I'm trying to decide between standard and hybrid heat pump. It's remotely possible that once in awhile the place where the drain pipe terminates is below the water level in the sump pit. They’ve been great to work with so far.
It's remotely possible that once in awhile the place where the drain pipe terminates is below the water level in the sump pit. I manually poured water down the line to confirm they're not blocked. There's no obvious water blockage. Maybe the sensor is bad. I have had no problems. I have a HP water heater as well. I let the vinyl hoses hang off of the unit into a bucket for a few days, rather than the normal drain, and the unit never alarmed while gradually filling the bucket with water. Hybrid water heater complains condensate lines are blocked; replaced all condensate lines, still complains. We're only 2 adults so we don't use a lot of hot water. I would contact Rheem customer support by phone and see what they say. Heat pump water heater says my condensate line is blocked, even though clear, Re: Heat pump water heater says my condensate line is blocked, even though clear, https://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/2b/2b4d73bf-5db1-4e11-871e-edab5c91b119.pdf, Quote from: a_scanner_brightly on March 08, 2018, 08:14:00 PM. When I originally hired a plumber to install the heater, he used PVC pipe for both the primary and secondary condensate line outs, connected together further downstream with a tee. The drain drops on top of a sump pit and the sump pump definitely works; I can hear it run when I pour water into the drain. Press J to jump to the feed. They seemed familiar with the problem...I think it’s common. EDIT2: spoke too soon. is there an "air gap" where the drain terminates?
of pipe before transitioning to the PVC tubing.
Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The setup looks fine, except the water sensor should be in the heater pan, there should be a drain on the heater pan, and you need a 6 once air gap between the ground and your popoff valve line. Login with username, password and session length. There are multiple factors to consider. Did it screw directly into the water heater? It alarms even when the hoses are simply dangling into a bucket, but less often, Pictures of the current setup here http://imgur.com/gallery/rCs8R. Try searching online and see how much it would cost to replace the sensor if feasible. I didn't double check that (it's in my crawl space so a bit of a PITA to get to). It's like at the end of 15 feet of piping though. Good to know I'm not the only one. Could it have something to do with the pressure of being looped into a longer, narrower PVC drain pipe (third picture)? Switch it into traditional mode (meaning it uses only the elements to heat the water). 50 gal 10 year hybrid high efficiency heat pump water heaters department of rheem performance platinum 50 gal 10 a novel modelling roach for don t let new water heater rules 3 Best Hybrid Water Heaters The Most EfficientRheem Performance Platinum 50 Gal 10 Year Hybrid High EfficiencyRheem Performance Platinum 50 Gal 10 Year Hybrid… Read More »
Sorry for the nearly two-week delay... Rheem cust service thinks the sensor is bad. The unit is a Rheem "Prestige" heat pump hybrid water heater. But now that I connect them to the drain pipe it alarms. Might be an easy fix though, or more expensive if an input on a control board had gone bad. Damn. The State hybrid manual says to put water heater in standby mode, then turn off power, remove access panel on fan side by loosening screws, wipe dirt and debris to clean pan, inspect line for clogs and kinks, do not reduce drain tube into smaller line, put cover back and restore power, then system performs diagnostic prior to operation. The unit is a Rheem "Prestige" heat pump water heater. I had to put a 90 degree elbow immediately off the side of the water heater (pointing straight down), and a short stub (2-3 inches?) Cookies help us deliver our Services. Try to clean out the condensate line and call Rheem tech support. Seems unlikely but I'm out of ideas. Yes, I just laid that sensor aside to adhere the small clips to the inside of the pan.
I did transport on its side.
Was the elbow itself threaded to fit without an adapter? Will try this next. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Could you describe the 90 elbow in more detail? No problems so far...I just run my condensate line to a condensate pump which then pumps the water to a drain in my basement. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. The unit is a Rheem "Prestige" heat pump water heater. I think so. reduced the frequency of the alarm but didn't eliminate it. Everything drains smoothly.
The recommendation is to get a condensate drain kit for convenient draining , and metal drain pans to protect the room where the heater is installed. The alarm does go off intermittently. No obstruction I could see or feel. Did you transport on its side? Did you call Rheem? Yes, I did indeed investigate. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, Don't advertise or try to compare pricing, thanks, Press J to jump to the feed. What's your assumption here? Try to clean out the condensate line and call Rheem tech support. Find out how the system senses water. My car has a sensor that tells me when the windshield wash is low. Not quite sure what you mean by, I just pushed the elbow onto the threaded fitting from the WH.
I wonder if it only alarms for as long as the pit is full, and then when the pump clears the pit it clears the alarm in the water heater. Not sure how they determine that your line is plugged...whether it's pressure or some other means.
Switch it into traditional mode (meaning it uses only the elements to heat the water). Sending me another sensor. Thank you. It hasn't given error codes since then. Power Vent and Power Direct Vent heaters are equipped with the condensate drain, so the water vapor from the exhaust gases will roll down the PVC vent pipe and through the drain port out. Water is definitely not backing up into the unit. Ha! Image of setup: water heater setup. The setup looks fine, except the water sensor should be in the heater pan, there should be a drain on the heater pan, and you need a 6 once air gap between the ground and your popoff valve line. I've seen these fail so that even if the reservoir is full, the light still claims it is empty. What did they suggest? It might be a sensor that needs to be cleaned or replaced. The water heater alarmed that a condensate line was blocked so I removed the fixed PVC piping and replaced them with transparent vinyl tubing with removable garden-hose style connectors so I could see what's happening. Why switch it to the electrical mode? Any advice? Rheem Manufacturing ranks as the global leader in the manufacture of high-quality, sustainable, and innovative water heaters, tankless water heaters, air conditioners, furnaces, pool heaters, and HVAC systems for residential and commercial applications, and is a full member of AHRI, the Air-Conditioning, Heating, & Refrigeration Institute. I just pushed the elbow onto the threaded fitting from the WH so I could take it apart and clean it if needed. I installed an 80 gallon version last year and the drain lines are simply placed into a stand pipe (like a washing machine would use). I tried a similar setup to yours and it alarmed/error coded for water too. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. I'd call tech support and scour the internet, there's probably a sensor that's gone bad. A place where people can come to learn and share their experiences of doing, building and fixing things on their own. Are you thinking having the pipe below the water level in the sump pit can put enough back pressure on the condensate line to make the sensor think it's blocked? I’m not sure how to address the alarm. When I originally hired a plumber to install the heater, he used PVC pipe for both the primary and secondary condensate line outs, connected together further downstream with a tee.
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