The back of the holder probably intended to be the counterweight, Graham. However as we are inserting a rod into the arm and effectively blocking it, then there is no room for an electrical cable to run inside of the repaired arm after it is repaired.
New thumb screw on the right, and overall adjustment has allowed for a low energy bulb to be used, the extra weight, pushes the shade down, so everything needs to be tighten up tighter.
Using a low energy bulb, reduces the temperature making it much more useful if I’m reading in bed, without burning my head! Hi! Also if anyone knows an easy way to get rusty springs back to shiny, please do tell.
On the question of bulbs, raised by Val and answered by Rob, I recently found some small, 3W (equivalent to a standard 20W), LED opaque golf ball type bulbs with a standard bayonet fitting in Poundland that for my purpose fit the bill. It is now ready for a complete repaint and refurb. There are 2 ways of fixing methods for the lamps: 1: The lampholder is screwed onto a 10mm thread in the back of the lampholder. Anglepoise reckon the model I've got is an Apex 90 but that's been discontinued and so can't help - but looking at their range most of them have a 'pin' type thing sticking into a base so does anyone know if another model has a 30mm deep x 10 mm dia hole and where would I get a base (or two?)? 28mm hole in the rear of the shade, any BC | B22 | Bayonet Cap lampholder will fit, however you MUST ensure a cord grip is installed. This one was a three-core twisted wire, but the earth stops before the first hole, connected near the springs, so only two wires pass through. Change ), http://www.blurb.co.uk/b/4151553-anglepoise. per page. Rob. For a temporary bodge, you could use the end of a decorative mirror screw. Much as I admire Carwardine's design, I prefer Richard Sapper's, I just checked this page (and neighbouring ones). The lamp is black and in fairly good condition if a little tired looking. its twelvetwentyseven.wordpress.com. Experts in lighting, we’ve been creating task lights, desk lamps and table lamps for over 80 years. The thread size is an old BA thread, i think 2BA but need to double check. Now with the development of super low temperature aluminium welding (or Brazing), a once expensive specialised technique has moved out of the workshop and in to your shed or kitchen.
It's all about balance, it turns out. I treated myself to a bench grinder with polishing kit from Machine Mart and set to polishing the aluminium parts of the lamp. I don’t know the dimension off the top of my head unfortunately, I will try and measure and get back to you. If you are looking to simply replace the lampholder and cable then we can help however most of the time the cable will need to … £99.00. Take a look at my new website devoted to anglepoise restoration: Hi. Thanks to both Rob and Matts for the info. The spring clip which holds the shade contracts to leave a gap of about 1" between the ends once the shade is removed, on my one. I see there’s an item on 30-something.co.uk called a “pin punch” which I guess is for putting them in? Obviously try it on a small area before you start the main part, just in case. Use x2 sets of socket sets if needed to tighten nuts correctly Looking forward to doing this.
I’m a student and I recently purchased a vintage Anglepoise Type75 for a bargain on eBay, however I did not expect the restoration quote to cost that much. Can't find anywhere online selling them, and they pop up on eBay sometimes at wildly varying prices (I don't fancy paying the price of an entire lamp to replace the one broken outer spring on mine). 2. The bulbs are branded “Electrek”. If you are looking to simply replace the lampholder and cable then we can help however most of the time the cable will need to be wired externally. Hope this helps, if you have any more questions post another comment and please let me know how you get on. yup. Also if anyone knows an easy way to get rusty springs back to shiny, please do tell. Nice little book which can be purchased if people are interested? FWIW I just checked my own lamps and I have two 1227 examples; an early two-step (with metal bushings and spring mounts) and a later two-step (with more plastic parts, similar to the white one pictured above). Could you tell me the thread sizes for the above lamp as I may have to make some as they are very expensive the clamping screw and the small dome head nuts I wonder if they make an 'Anglepoise' designed for the heavier bulbs? New rubber grommets, the old ones had degraded so much that they broke apart on removal.
In most cases inside the shade will be some kind of bracket with a hole in the middle if this hole is 10mm then you can simple use the following 2 items: 2: The lampholder is held into position using its shade ring, so the lampholder is halfway through the shade which generally are approx 28mm diameter holes. Amongst the stuffs in Dad's house is an original-with-cloth-covered-flex Anglepoise 1227.
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